When it comes time to crafting the perfect African safari, just remember: don't bother. (Unless you have lots of money.) Maybe a better way to explain it is that a good safari experience starts with a good state of mind. The expectation is just as important as the actual expedition. Choose small private or large public park; pay money or drive yourself; be the early bird or take an afternoon off: it all comes down to trade-offs between number of sightings, price, and authenticity.
In South Africa there are a host of game parks and reserves, both public and privately owned. They exist from the Mediterranean and semi-desert lands of the Western Cape to the sandy coastal forests of Kwa-Zulu Natal. The gem in the crown of South African parks is Kruger National Park. Kruger lies in the far north-east corner of SA, but has an extensive border along Mozambique, and a smaller one with Zimbabwe.
 |
| http://www.sa-venues.com/game_lodges_nationwide_south_afr.htm |
I did not go to Kruger National Park. It was always the plan, and I was excited at the prospect of wrapping up my time in southern Africa with a trip there. However, it just didn't work out that way. At the same time, I managed to have two experiences that filled the safari void--in fact, they were each a safari of a sort.
 |
| Zululand and the Elephant Coast, Kwa-Zulu Natal Province (http://www.zululand-accommodation.co.za/img/kzn_zm.gif) |
My two safaris took place in the Kwa-Zulu Natal Province, more specifically, the so-called "Elephant Coast." I might call the first one an unintended expedition. It happened from the open bed of a truck headed to a beach in a St. Lucia park, officially known as iSimangaliso Wetland Park. It was overcast with a slight drizzle, and me and two friends were zooming through the park in the back with only some coolers to hang on to. In the cab sat two SA dudes we had just met the night before. It wasn't until the driver pointed out the zebras to the left that I realized, hey! I'm on my first safari! And thus an expectation was set, and an expedition born.
 |
| A typical park entrance, except for the nonchalance regarding open containers |
 |
| Taryn embracing the wind; our host for the weekend getting involved |
 |
| Maria finds something funny. This is the closest I got to a shot of any wildlife in these surroundings. |
 |
| The St. Lucia (public) beach. The whole park is a World Heritage Site but this part was a bit more local. |
Despite the lack of evidence above, we did spot zebra, buffalo, and many "bok" or deer species--all from the cold comfort of standing, in the rain, with a beer, in the back of a boer's truck. And then there was the view during Sunday brunch.
* * *
Our next safari was planned, but not facilitated by anyone except the friend (Taryn) who supplied her 4x4 and myself and another friend (Maria) who made the lunches. This expedition took place in a placed called Tembe Elephant Reserve, apparently home to a huge and well-maintained elephant herd, along with the rest of the "big 5": rhinoceros, lion, leopard, and buffalo. By the time I went here, I was already debating whether or not to go to Kruger. At Tembe, I would have the chance to see the same animals. It was also only about 45 minutes away, and FREE.
Again, a safari is part expectation, and usually you want to err on the side of keeping expectations low. The funny thing about charismatic megafauna is that they basically do what they want, when they want. Hence, I was prepared to have scenic ride through coastal bush, but not necessarily see a thing.
Below are the pictures of the beasts I DID see. I must add that there is nothing quite like seeing an elephant herd lumber a half-mile towards your car--and this is something that can't really be captured on camera.
 |
| important navigation tasks |
 |
| Taryn, the Cape-Tonian driver |
 |
| Reed buck |
 |
| termite mound |
 |
| they came our way from the forest |
 |
| nyala with cud |
 |
| ! Feed on Sighting ! |
 |
| More nyala. Their coats apparently change very much as they mature. |
 |
| the view from the hide |
 |
| I think he/she saw us first |
 |
| the mighty dung beetle--a lot of work to doo at the Tembe Elephant Reserve |
I truly would have loved to see a lion, and a rhino. A leopard would have been unbelievable. It would also be really cool to see a Tyrannosaurus. But just like in Jurassic Park, even the slow creeping drive through the park without seeing a thing can raise your interest in what could be out there. It's just the chance of seeing these beasts--as long as you don't actually expect to see them--that made this safari trek worth taking.
